Obor Market is one of the oldest and most emblematic places in Bucharest, a space that has witnessed the city’s evolution from a small trading settlement to a modern capital. For more than two centuries, this place has been the beating heart of Bucharest’s commerce, a meeting point for producers, sellers, buyers, and curious onlookers, but also a space laden with history, traditions, and even dark legends. While today Obor is synonymous with a bustling marketplace full of life,  where people come to buy fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and traditional products, in the past it had a very different role, serving as both a livestock fair and a site for public executions.

From the Cattle Market to the “Outside Fair”

The first mentions of this market date back to the 18th century, when it was known as the “Cattle Market” or simply “Obor,” located in the Batiștei area, where today we find Nicolae Filipescu and Dianei Streets.

At that time, cattle were sold here, and animals were slaughtered and butchered on-site for delivery to the city’s butchers. However, in 1786, Prince Nicolae Mavrogheni decided, through a princely decree, to move the market farther away from the city center. His reasoning was simple: slaughtering animals within city limits posed a serious risk of disease outbreaks.

The new location was called the “Outside Fair,” being set up outside the city boundaries. Interestingly, as Bucharest expanded over time, the fair was continually pushed farther outward, following the city’s growth. 

At the beginning of the 19th century, the “Outside Fair” was situated near the Olari Church, as evidenced by the names of the surrounding streets: Olari, Călușei, Vaselor, Brașovului, and Făinari — all reminiscent of the crafts and trades that once defined the area.

When Obor became the heart of the Moșilor district

Around 1830, under the Organic Regulation, the market was relocated to its current position, becoming known as the Market of the Moșilor District, a name that would remain forever tied to the city’s identity. 

At that time, the market was bordered by Pantelimon Road, Colentina Road, and the vineyards owned by scholar Ion Heliade Rădulescu, who cultivated grapes in the area, hence the name of the street “Heliade între Vii” (Heliade among the Vineyards).

To the south lay the so-called “Moșilor Mouth,” a lively and colorful place filled with taverns, pretzel shops, bakeries, and yogurt vendors. 

The air was filled with the aroma of warm pretzels sprinkled with seeds, while people refreshed themselves with cool, creamy yogurt during the hot summer days. The atmosphere was joyful and bustling, and the fair had become the beating heart of popular commerce in Bucharest.

The origin of “Moșilor” and echoes of a bloody battle

Few people know that the name “Moșilor” has a dramatic and legendary origin. In 1632, a fierce battle took place here between Matei Basarab and Radu Ilieș, a Moldavian ruler who sought to dethrone Basarab. The confrontation lasted two days and resulted in heavy casualties. 

In memory of the fallen, Matei Basarab decreed that annual memorial services should be held on the site. The name “Moșilor” (meaning “The Elders” or “The Ancestors”) comes from the religious holiday dedicated to commemorating the dead, where food is shared and prayers (parastas) are offered for the souls of the departed.

As the fair grew, the two traditions — the memorial gatherings and the marketplace — merged, giving rise to the name “Târgul Moșilor” (The Fair of the Ancestors), a name that has endured through the centuries.

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The place of execution in old Bucharest

Although today Obor Market is lively and cheerful, in centuries past it had a grim side. During the 18th century, on market days — Wednesdays and Saturdays — public executions were carried out here. 

Those condemned to death were “paraded through the market,” with the act of condemnation hung around their necks, shouting “Forgive me, brothers!” to which the crowd would respond, “You are forgiven!”.

The gallows in Obor remained active until 1823, when Prince Grigore Ghica banned public executions. However, the wooden structure was only dismantled in 1870, almost half a century later.

In 1877, the merchants of the area raised a memorial cross — known as “The Merchants’ Cross” — and dug a well, in an attempt to consecrate the ground where hundreds, perhaps even thousands, had died. The cross still stands today, in front of the Sector 2 City Hall, as one of the oldest reminders of the site’s bloody past.

From livestock fair to modern market

As Bucharest developed, Obor gradually changed its face. In the first half of the 20th century, the place where cattle were once traded transformed into a lively market where locals could find almost anything: toys, ceramics, restaurants, traveling circuses, instant photo booths, breweries, and workshops of potters, spoon carvers, and brandy makers. Obor became a true spectacle of urban life, a vibrant and colorful stage reflecting the soul of the city.

In the 1920s, the market underwent a major modernization. It was turned into a “sample fair” and annual exhibition, modeled after the great European markets. 

This transformation was met with some resistance from traditional peasants and merchants, who claimed that the old charm of Obor had been lost. Nevertheless, the new market quickly grew in prestige, becoming the most important trading hub in Bucharest — a status it still enjoys today.

The merchant legacy of Bucharest

Although time and modernization have left their mark, the spirit of Obor has endured. Many of the old commercial arteries, such as Calea Moșilor, were transformed or partially demolished during urban redevelopment projects, and many of the historic shops and inns disappeared. 

Yet some areas, like Vaselor, Călușei, Episcopul Radu, and Făinari streets, still preserve the traces of that old merchant world. The surviving houses of former traders, with their elegant facades and architectural details, stand today as witnesses to a Bucharest that once thrived on commerce, craftsmanship, and trade — long before anyone could imagine shopping malls.

Obor Market today

Today, Obor Market remains one of Bucharest’s liveliest and most authentic places. From the colorful stalls full of fresh produce to the famous grilled sausages and beer stand near the main hall, Obor is a true symbol of Romanian spirit and tradition. 

It is a place where history, culture, and everyday life intertwine, creating an atmosphere found nowhere else in the city.

From its origins as the “Outside Fair” and its dark days as a place of execution, to its modern incarnation as a bustling marketplace, Obor has traveled a long and fascinating road.

 Every corner of it carries the echoes of more than two centuries of history — a story about trade, community, and the endurance of Bucharest’s unique spirit through time.

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