Today, Calea Moșilor is one of the most important and vibrant thoroughfares in Bucharest, a street deeply rooted in the city’s past. This iconic avenue stretches back to the medieval period and has evolved over the centuries from a commercial road frequented by merchants and townspeople to a modern boulevard bustling with life and activity. To truly understand the significance of Calea Moșilor, one must examine its origins and the transformations it has undergone over the decades.

A historic artery of Bucharest

During the medieval period, near the princely court, there were already two major fairs: the Inner Fair (Târgul Dinlăuntru), located around the princely court, and the Upper Fair (Târgul de Sus), near Zlătari Church. These fairs were essential commercial hubs for the city’s life, attracting merchants from all over the world.

However, an important issue arose: the increasing number of merchants without space in these established fairs, who needed their own commercial area. This led to the creation of the Outer Fair (Târgul de Afară), a new commercial hub that became a meeting place for a diverse array of merchants from different parts of the world.

The Bridge of the Outer Market and the medieval trade routes

A 1640 document, mentioned by historian G.I. Ionnescu-Gion in Istoria Bucureștilor, refers to Podul Târgului de Afară as an important road connecting these markets and playing a crucial role in the city’s trade. 

At the same time, Podul Târgoviştei, near the Upper Fair, was already documented, with commercial activity on this trade route intensifying.

The Bridge of the Outer Market was thus established to link the city center with the new fair located in the area of Oborul Vechi Church, now known as Saints Joachim and Anna Church.

As the city expanded, Calea Moșilor became a place of immense social and commercial diversity. The road connecting The Inner Fair of the Outer Market was traversed by peasants, merchants, and foreigners, including Greeks, Turks, Hungarians, Serbs, Bulgarians, and even French and Italians, as described by I.G. Ionnescu in Istoria Bucureștilor. 

Situated in a dynamic area, the street became the perfect place for commercial exchanges and interactions among people of different nationalities.

The Moșilor Fair and cultural traditions

Another important aspect of Calea Moșilor was the Moșilor Fair, held annually on the Saturday of Pentecost, marking the remembrance of the dead. This traditional fair was a major event for the residents of Bucharest, and its name was later adopted for the street itself.

According to historians, Moșilor Fair took place on land belonging to Prince Grigore Ghica in the Colentina area, attracting people from across the region.

The traditions of this fair were immortalized in 1867 watercolors by Amadeo Preziosi, capturing scenes of urban and rural life in Bucharest during that period.

The last journey of condemned prisoners

Calea Moșilor also witnessed a macabre but historically significant phenomenon: the passage of death row prisoners. As part of a grim custom, those sentenced to death would ride along the street on donkeys, wearing a notice of their sentence around their necks. 

This public display took them to the execution site at the end of the road, often a symbolic gallows, leaving an indelible mark on the street’s history.

Early urban development and paving

Calea Moșilor evolved steadily, becoming a landmark in the city. In 1825, it became the first street in Bucharest to be paved, symbolizing urban progress and the capital’s development. 

At the beginning of the 20th century, specifically in 1906, it was considered the city’s longest thoroughfare, stretching approximately 2,830 meters.

The early 1900s also brought modernization: the electric tram replaced ox-drawn carts, connecting the street with the rest of the city and enhancing its role as a commercial artery. Over the century, residential buildings gradually replaced inns and shops, reflecting the evolving urban landscape.

Interwar period and architectural heritage

During the interwar period, Calea Moșilor continued to hold significant importance. Buildings constructed along the boulevard during this time displayed distinctive architectural styles, some of which survive today. 

For instance, at number 79, the Church of the Saints stands, originally a wooden church founded around the same time as the street itself, giving its name to the nearby neighborhood.

Nearby was Podul Armenilor, a commercial area historically described as Bucharest’s barrier during the reign of Matei Basarab. 

After World War II, Calea Moșilor remained a predominantly commercial and residential zone, with low-rise buildings reflecting interwar or even older architectural styles. The street linked Saint George Square to the Obor area, famous for its many shops, workshops, and modest dwellings.

Communist-era transformations

Under the communist regime, Calea Moșilor underwent radical transformation and was divided into two distinct sections:

Old Calea Moșilor (between Piața Sfântul Gheorghe and Bulevardul Carol I) retained much of its original architecture, with many neoclassical or Art Deco buildings surviving. Small shops, workshops, and individual homes remained, though they gradually deteriorated due to lack of maintenance.

New Calea Moșilor (between Bulevardul Carol I and Piața Obor) underwent extensive urban restructuring during the 1970s and 1980s, similar to other major Bucharest boulevards. Old buildings were demolished, especially in the 1980s under Nicolae Ceaușescu’s directives, to make way for apartment blocks. 

Most of these new structures were 8-10 stories tall, uniform and functional in style, with minimal decorative elements. The area was widened, modernized, and commercial spaces were added at ground level. This section became a typical communist boulevard, especially around Obor, which hosted the famous Obor commercial complex, a major attraction for shoppers.

Post-revolution transformations

After the fall of communism in 1989, Calea Moșilor experienced chaotic transformations, driven by privatizations, commercial changes, and sporadic renovations.

Economic and commercial reconfiguration: State-owned stores in the communist-era blocks were privatized or converted into private businesses, giving rise to numerous neighborhood shops, pharmacies, fast-food restaurants, banks, and showrooms. Obor Market and its commercial complex underwent modernization but remained a central hub for trade in food and industrial goods.

Infrastructure degradation and rehabilitation: During the 1990s and 2000s, many communist-era buildings began to deteriorate, necessitating renovations. By the 2010s, thermal rehabilitation programs improved the visual and energy efficiency of many structures.

Revitalization of old Calea Moșilor: After 2000, the older section gained tourist and commercial interest. Cafes, restaurants, and craft shops opened, and some historic buildings were restored. However, many properties remain in poor condition, requiring urgent intervention.

Modernization of roads and public transport: The tram line along Calea Moșilor was upgraded for more efficient transportation, with repairs to road surfaces and sidewalks. Despite these improvements, traffic congestion and parking issues persist.

A symbol of Bucharest’s evolution

Calea Moșilor reflects the city’s evolution from medieval trade routes to a modern boulevard with diverse residential, commercial, and cultural life. 

From its beginnings as The Bridge of the Outer Market, through the busy commercial center it became, to its modern transformations, the street embodies the complex history of Bucharest.

Over the centuries, it has witnessed Pentecost fairs, bustling trade, and the final journeys of condemned prisoners. Today, Calea Moșilor remains an emblematic avenue where history and modernity intersect, offering a tangible connection to the city’s rich and layered past.

We also recommend: The history of Colentina Hospital: “New Pantelimon,” inaugurated by Alexandru Ioan Cuza