Few stories in Bucharest’s history combine flavors, culture, and literary memories as well as that of the Gambrinus Brewery. A celebrated haunt of the city’s bohemian circles, the legendary establishment was more than just a tavern: it became a symbol of the capital, a meeting point for writers, journalists, artists, and politicians. Its association with Ion Luca Caragiale turned Gambrinus into a mythical space, rivaling even the famous Caru’ cu Bere. In what follows, we retrace the historical path of this storied brewery, explore the atmosphere of its heyday, and discover how it managed to survive urban transformations and even the communist regime.

The first pages of Gambrinus’ history

Gambrinus Brewery was not founded by Caragiale, as is often believed. It already existed in 1897, bearing the name of Gambrinus, the legendary king of beer in European folklore. 

Caragiale, with his instinct for business and his well-known passion for beer, bought the establishment in 1901, after several other ventures in the tavern trade.

The writer had already been involved in similar enterprises, such as the Mihalcea and Caragiale Brewery, opened in 1893, or the Academic Brewery Bene Bibendi, inaugurated a year later. These experiences prepared him for his most famous business adventure: taking over Gambrinus.

Caragiale’s Gambrinus: the spirit of Bucharest’s bohemia

In the autumn of 1901, Caragiale became the owner of Gambrinus, located on 4 Cîmpineanu Street, at the ground floor of the Mandy House. The building belonged to Franz Mandy, the official photographer of the Royal Court, whose portraits were so sought after that clients sometimes waited years for an appointment.

The interior of the brewery was a large, dimly lit hall, furnished with wooden tables, simple chairs, and red velvet-upholstered couches. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, and Caragiale himself often brought it to life. It is said that he sometimes served customers in person, spicing up the service with jokes and witty remarks in his trademark style.

Gambrinus quickly became a gathering place for actors of the National Theatre located just across the street, for writers seeking inspiration, and for journalists from Adevărul and Universul, always on the lookout for gossip or leads. The brewery pulsed with creative energy and lively conversation, fueled, of course, by cold, flavorful beer.

Beer, music, and fame

One of Gambrinus’ secrets of success was Caragiale’s partnership with the brewery in Azuga. Two emblematic varieties were served: the white beer Coroana and the dark beer Salvator, much admired for its strong taste.

Alongside quality beer, patrons were drawn by the festive atmosphere: folk bands and later jazz groups kept the nights alive, entertaining revelers until dawn.

Gambrinus also offered a wide range of drinks, including fine wines and, later, the famous Maltosan Nectar beer produced by the Luther brewery — available only here and much sought after.

Caragiale leaves, but Gambrinus endures

Although Caragiale moved to Germany in 1905, just four years after taking over the brewery, Gambrinus lived on. The establishment remained one of the central hubs of Bucharest nightlife, changing hands several times but keeping its fame.

In the 1930s, restaurateur Ionel Petcu invested in modernizing the brewery. Reports in the press, such as those in Realitatea Ilustrată, described an elegant venue, fully renovated and equipped with modern facilities. 

Its international cuisine, led by a master chef, attracted a diverse clientele, turning the brewery into both a renowned beer hall and a fine restaurant.

An end of an era and a historic move

At the end of the 1930s, the Fialkowski Building and the Mandy House were demolished, bringing the first era of Gambrinus to a close. Yet the legend did not disappear.

In the 1940s, Gambrinus moved to its most famous location, on Elisabeta Boulevard, at the ground floor of the Palace Hotel (later renamed the Cișmigiu Hotel), right on the corner with Ion Brezoianu Street. 

Until then, the hotel’s ground floor had been occupied by one of the Otto Gagel bakery outlets. The brewery was owned by a businessman named Naumescu, who sought to preserve the identity of Gambrinus by opening it in a luxurious new setting.

Gambrinus under communism

Surprisingly, the communist regime did not close down Gambrinus, as it did with many other historic establishments. The brewery retained both its name and its activity until 1989, making it a rare case of survival during a period of enforced uniformity.

Even in those difficult years, Gambrinus remained a gathering place where people could drink a beer, listen to music, or simply exchange thoughts. Its identity, rooted in the bohemian days of Caragiale, managed to withstand decades of restrictions and censorship.

Gambrinus after the Revolution

After 1989, the Cișmigiu Hotel went through major changes. For a while it functioned as a student dormitory, then it was returned to its rightful owners, who sold the historic building to a hotel group that restored it. Today, the building houses a stylish four-star hotel, and on the ground floor, the tradition of Gambrinus has been revived.

The new brewery, reopened in the spirit of the interwar years, seeks to recreate the original atmosphere: the furniture recalls old-time taverns, and the menu combines various types of beer with both Romanian and international dishes. For both tourists and locals, a visit to Gambrinus is a journey into the city’s history.

The rivalry with Caru’ cu Bere

In its heyday, Gambrinus was seen as the direct rival of Caru’ cu Bere, another iconic establishment of Bucharest. While Caru’ cu Bere impressed with its neo-Gothic architecture and lavish interiors, Gambrinus attracted patrons with its bohemian spirit, its ties to the cultural elite, and Caragiale’s personal presence.

Both establishments withstood the test of time and became city landmarks. Yet in the collective imagination, Gambrinus remains indelibly tied to the genius playwright, giving it a unique aura.

History lived through a glass of beer

The story of Gambrinus Brewery is, at heart, the story of Bucharest itself: a history filled with effervescence, contradictions, destruction, and rebirth. From Caragiale’s dim hall with red velvet couches to the modern location on Elisabeta Boulevard, Gambrinus witnessed a capital in constant transformation.

Today, every glass raised at Gambrinus carries the taste of another era and recalls the memory of a lost bohemia. The rivalry with Caru’ cu Bere, Caragiale’s witty remarks, the folk bands and jazz of the 1930s — all intertwine in a living legend.

Gambrinus is not just a brewery. It is a cultural symbol, a marker of Bucharest’s spirit, and a bridge between past and present, where history can be savored as intensely as the cold, foamy beer poured into the glasses of generations who have crossed its threshold.

Photo credit: bucuresteanul.ro

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