Covaci Street, a discreet artery in the heart of Bucharest’s Old Town, is a place where history intertwines with legend, and echoes of the past continue to resonate among the walls of old façades. Here, stories are not limited to cobblestones and architecture; they touch every dimension of urban life: from the medieval crafts of blacksmiths to the bohemian pubs where artists, journalists, and fallen aristocrats met. It was also here that a culinary inspiration of the moment changed Romanian gastronomy forever, bringing the famous mici to our tables. From its medieval roots to the cultural and literary effervescence of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Covaci Street has remained a lively space, where past and present coexist in a unique harmony.

Beginnings of a street with a craft-related name

Covaci derives its name from the Hungarian word “kovács,” meaning “blacksmith.” This is no coincidence: for centuries, members of this guild had their workshops here, respected and indispensable to the community. In the Middle Ages, the street was not a distinct thoroughfare but part of a larger area called “Podul Nou in Mahalaua Curtea Veche,” where merchants, artisans, and travelers gathered.

The atmosphere was typically Bucharestian: inns with large gates, muddy lanes in spring, dusty paths in summer, and a constant buzz from busy trade. In the 19th century, with the modernization of the capital, the street became more clearly defined and was briefly called “Strada Nouă.” However, in 1852, authorities officially named it “Covaci,” preserving the tradition of naming streets after the trades that gave them identity.

Just as there are Blănari, Șelari, or Lipscani streets, Covaci became an artery celebrating a profession. This urban practice reveals much about how Bucharest organized itself around crafts and commerce, and these names remain living markers of the city’s history to this day.

Craii de Curte Veche and Mateiu Caragiale’s bohemian world

While Covaci’s roots lie in guilds and crafts, its cultural renown comes from literature. In Mateiu Caragiale’s novel Craii de Curtea Veche, this street becomes the literary stage for one of the most memorable episodes.

The main characters – Pașadia, Pantazi, Gore Pirgu, and the Narrator – meet here in a pub typical of the early 20th century. The atmosphere is dense: cigarette smoke hangs heavily, glasses of wine and brandy circulate, and conversations drift from politics to women, all spiced with irony and sophistication.

When leaving the tavern, the moment takes on legendary proportions. Pena Corcodușa, an eccentric and colorful old woman, appears in the middle of the street and, recognizing in the four men a symbol of the decadence of the old world, mockingly calls them “Craii de Curtea Veche.” From that moment, Covaci Street ceases to be merely a place of pubs; it becomes part of a literary mythology.

This scene perfectly captures the bohemian spirit of the area: gloryless aristocrats, marginal intellectuals, and urban adventurers intersected paths, creating a unique atmosphere both decadent and fascinating.

“România Liberă” was born on Covaci Street

Not only literature but also the history of Romanian journalism cemented this street’s reputation. During the War of Independence in 1877, România Liberă, one of the most influential newspapers of the era, had its editorial office on Covaci. Founded by Mihail Kogălniceanu, the publication promoted progressive ideas, advocated modernization, and supported the cause of national independence.

The presence of such an important editorial office in this area highlights Covaci’s role as a cultural and political center. The street thus became not only a meeting place for blacksmiths and tavern-goers but also a space where opinions were formed, ideas debated, and essential directions for the country’s destiny shaped.

Imagine the scene: windows fogged by cigarette smoke and hot coffee, the clatter of typewriters, voices raised in heated debates. It was a typically Bucharestian effervescence, a mix of chaos and creativity that brought the city to life.

Where Romanian mici were invented

If the press and literature gave Covaci Street cultural fame, gastronomy brought it eternal celebrity. In the second half of the 19th century, the restaurant La o idee, run by the witty and inventive restaurateur Iordache Ionescu, operated here.

Legend has it that on a busy evening, the restaurant ran out of the casings needed for sausages. Impatient customers insisted on being served. Ionescu then found an ingenious solution: he mixed the meat with a little baking soda and spices, shaped it into small forms, and threw it directly on the grill. The result was spectacular – mititei, or mici, which quickly became the highlight of the menu.

The atmosphere of the restaurant perfectly complemented this innovation. The menu was full of playful and humorous names: ice was “Siberian cream,” hot peppers were “torpedo,” and a glass of wine was called “battery.” It is said that the humorist Nicolae Orășanu contributed to the naming of the restaurant and the charm of the menu.

Thus, Romanian mici were born – a dish that far exceeded the boundaries of Covaci Street and became a national symbol, present on every May Day grill and any convivial gathering.

Covaci today – between tourism and nostalgia

Today, Covaci Street is an integral part of the tourist route in the Old Town. With lively terraces, restored historic buildings, and a constant flow of visitors, the street attracts both locals and tourists. The atmosphere is cosmopolitan, where the echoes of history mingle with modern music rhythms and urban bustle.

Yet for those who know how to look beyond the modern shop windows and the buzz of parties, Covaci still reveals the charm of yesteryear. Close your eyes and imagine the clanging of blacksmiths’ hammers, the laughter of Caragiale’s crai, or the smell of grilled mici, and you will understand that the street lives and breathes through its stories.

Today, Covaci remains a unique mix: a short but lively street, a true jewel of Bucharest, where culinary heritage, literature, and the press intertwine.

A street where history meets legend

Covaci Street is not just a simple artery of the Old Town; it is a place where Bucharest’s identity was shaped in multiple forms. Here, the sounds of blacksmiths’ hammers were heard, progressive ideas of the press were printed, memorable pages of literature were written, and grill fires were lit that gave birth to mici.

Each layer of story adds depth to this seemingly ordinary street, transforming it into a symbol of Romanian vitality and creativity. Covaci is living proof that a city’s history is not found only in monuments or museums but also in the streets that have gathered timeless stories within their walls.