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Kretzulescu Church, between past and present. Built by Safta Brâncoveanu, saved from ruin

Kretzulescu Church, between past and present. Built by Safta Brâncoveanu, saved from ruin

By Bucharest Team

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In the center of Bucharest, just a few steps from Calea Victoriei and the Royal Palace, stands one of the most valuable monuments of religious architecture in the capital: the Kretzulescu Church. Built at the beginning of the 18th century, between 1720 and 1722, the church was founded by the great logothete Iordache Kretzulescu and his wife Safta, the daughter of martyr-prince Constantin Brâncoveanu.

Kretzulescu Church, a monument with Brâncovenesc roots

For Safta Brâncoveanu, the construction of this place of worship carried a deep personal meaning. Her father had been brutally executed, along with his sons, in Istanbul, and her husband Iordache had been a direct witness to the tragedy.

His survival after exile was interpreted as a miracle, which is why the two built the church as a gesture of gratitude to divinity. The edifice was dedicated to the “Dormition of the Mother of God” and to the “Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel,” and was erected on the site of a wooden church known as “La puțul cu zale” (“At the chain well”).

Thus, Kretzulescu Church was not merely a place of prayer, but also a monument of memory, an expression of faith and resilience in the face of adversity.

Refined and expressive architecture

The construction is a representative example of the Brâncovenesc style, blending traditional Romanian elements with Oriental and Renaissance influences. The red brick façades, divided by a carved stone belt, give the monument a distinctive elegance. The porch, supported by six massive stone columns, impresses with its harmonious arches.

The slender towers, subtle decorations, and well-balanced proportions lend the ensemble both a monumental and a welcoming character. Another unique element is the porch frescoes depicting scenes from the Apocalypse—a rare detail in Romanian religious architecture.

Inside, much of the original 1722 painting has been lost over time, but fragments have survived and can still be admired today. In the porch lies the tomb of Emanoil C. Kretzulescu (1806–1878), a 19th-century politician and promoter of modern reforms.

How the church transformed over the centuries

Throughout its three centuries of existence, the church underwent several modifications and restorations. The first major interventions, in 1815 and 1859, significantly altered its appearance: the porch arches were walled in, windows were enlarged, and the façades received neo-Gothic-inspired decorations. At the same time, the original fresco was covered by oil paintings created by Gheorghe Tattarescu, known for his classicizing style.

During the interwar period, however, the authorities realized the monument’s historical value. Between 1935 and 1936, under the coordination of the Commission of Historical Monuments and architect Ștefan Balș, the church was restored to approximate its original form.

The 18th-century Byzantine painting was reconstituted, while most of Tattarescu’s works were removed, except for the portraits of the founders, considered valuable artworks.

A remarkable detail is the carved stone belt, inspired by the original model but preserved in part in its authentic form, now visible through a glass panel on the altar façade.

Windows rebuilt in the Moldavian style with pierced stone frames and the strengthening of the vaults helped revive the authentic Brâncovenesc atmosphere.

The church in the 20th century: threats and survival

World War II brought new hardships. The 1944 bombings damaged walls and façades, leaving scars for a long time. More serious, however, was the threat during the communist period.

Nicolae Ceaușescu’s regime endangered many places of worship, and Kretzulescu Church, located in the city center, was no exception.

In the 1980s, there were plans to demolish or relocate it, but the monument’s historical and artistic value prompted the authorities and the cultural community to oppose such actions. The church was saved, becoming a symbol of heritage resistance against ideological abuses.

After 1990, the church entered a new stage. Father Vasile Răducă took over the parish, and in the following years funds were raised for consolidation and restoration works. These were essential, as the walls and roof were in poor condition. The roof was rebuilt, the vaults reinforced with a reinforced concrete dome to withstand earthquakes, and the façades restored.

As for the painting, a complex plan was implemented: about 40% of the original fresco was preserved, while missing areas were filled with new paintings executed in the 18th-century style. This approach allowed for both authenticity and visual coherence.

Artistic and spiritual heritage

Inside the church, several heritage pieces of exceptional value are preserved. Among them is a massive enameled bronze chandelier, made in Paris in 1837, as well as old icons, some dating back to the first half of the 17th century.

These objects complete the sacred atmosphere of the church, while also bearing witness to its tumultuous history.

The church is not only a place of worship but also a space that inspires through its symbolic force. It represents the link between the generations that built, restored, and saved it, and those who walk through its doors today.

Kretzulescu Church today

On its 300th anniversary in the autumn of 2022, the church was celebrated as one of Bucharest’s most important religious and architectural monuments.

Today, it attracts both worshippers and tourists fascinated by its beauty. Positioned in the heart of the capital, between modern buildings and the noise of boulevards, the church offers an oasis of peace and spirituality.

At the same time, it remains a landmark of Romanian history and culture. Its story is tied to great boyar families, the tragedy of the Brâncoveanu princes, the architectural transformations of the 19th and 20th centuries, and the resistance of heritage against communist abuses.

Conclusion: a symbol of faith and identity

Kretzulescu Church is more than an architectural monument. It is a living testimony of a history full of trials, an expression of faith and of the Romanian spirit that has endured through centuries.

Founded by Safta Brâncoveanu and Iordache Kretzulescu in memory of a martyred family, saved from ruin through the efforts of successive generations, the church remains today both a place of contemplation and a cultural landmark for all who enter it.

After three centuries, its beauty and artistic value continue to inspire and fascinate, demonstrating that tradition and spirituality can survive even the most turbulent times.

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