The Red Snake, between Glory and Ruin: How the Favorite Tavern of 20th-Century Bucharest’s Great Artists Met Its End

By Bucharest Team
- Articles
Bucharest, a city with a rich history and a unique charm, has always been known for its picturesque taverns, places where urban life and artistic bohemianism blended into an unforgettable atmosphere. Among these legendary spots stood “Șarpele Roșu” (“The Red Snake”), a tavern that became the epicenter of Bucharest’s bohemian life after the Revolution. Located at the intersection of Eminescu Street and Galați Street, it was more than a simple meeting place; it was a sanctuary for artists, writers, actors, and cultural figures seeking inspiration and freedom.
A legendary place in Bucharest
“Șarpele Roșu” witnessed lively evenings where famous names such as Ștefan Iordache, Gheorghe Dinică, Nelu Ploieșteanu, and Ștefan Bănică shared their passion for art, music, and theater.
The tavern’s owner, known as nea Dan, wanted to create more than just a tavern: a space where people could feel at home, where honesty and authenticity dominated every corner. In an interview given more than three decades ago, nea Dan admitted that the essence of “Șarpele Roșu” was its role as a refuge for creative souls.
Over the years, “Șarpele Roșu” became more than a tavern: it was a meeting point for those who lived for art and culture. Ideas were born here, projects were discussed, and the energy of the place inspired everyone present.
One of the things that made the tavern truly special was its distinctive decor. In a space of just 19 square meters, the red walls were adorned with paintings depicting notable figures from the history of communism, adding a touch of irony and humor to an otherwise lively and creative atmosphere. This combination of visual aesthetics and playful spirit turned “Șarpele Roșu” into a location with its own personality.
In addition, the unique cuisine and careful selection of patrons added a special charm. Although the menu was modest, the dishes were always fresh, with meat and other delicacies sourced from a nearby butcher. This attention to detail transformed each visit into a memorable experience, reinforcing the tavern’s legendary status.
Challenges and Difficult Moments
Like any legend, “Șarpele Roșu” faced its share of challenges. On one unfortunate occasion, the tavern was vandalized by members of a criminal gang, and nea Dan had to intervene personally to restore order. Despite these difficulties, the owner maintained his integrity and continued to offer a space of freedom and inspiration for all who visited.
However, fate eventually changed the tavern’s story. In 2001, the building housing “Șarpele Roșu” was restituted, forcing nea Dan to relocate. Although many hoped the tavern would continue elsewhere, he chose to close it permanently, thus ending an unforgettable chapter in Bucharest’s bohemian history—a chapter that left vivid memories for those privileged enough to step inside this sanctuary of artists.
The Legacy of “Șarpele Roșu”
Even though its doors are now closed, the memory and charm of “Șarpele Roșu” live on through stories and recollections. The tavern remains a symbol of an era when bohemianism, friendship, and passion for art converged in a small yet vibrant space. From musical evenings to philosophical discussions and anecdotes about the lives of artists, every detail contributed to the magic of the place.
For those who experienced it, “Șarpele Roșu” was more than a tavern—it was a refuge, a space where societal rules were suspended, and creativity and freedom were supreme values. It was a place where artists could be themselves, express their emotions and ideas, and connect with people who shared their passions.
Atmosphere and People
Among the people who made “Șarpele Roșu” memorable were not only actors and musicians but also writers and intellectuals of the time. Every visit carried a spark of inspiration, and the evenings spent there remained in everyone’s memory as moments of intense creation and socialization. The bohemian decor, combined with a passion for gastronomy and music, created a space that could not be replicated.
The story of “Șarpele Roșu” is more than the tale of a tavern; it is a lesson in how a place can become legendary when it nurtures creativity, passion, and authenticity. In an ever-changing Bucharest, “Șarpele Roșu” was a reference point for the city’s bohemia, a place where artists could live, love, create, and enjoy life without constraints.
Although the physical location no longer exists, its memory endures, and the stories of magical evenings continue to inspire new generations. “Șarpele Roșu” remains a symbol of an era, a capsule of time where art and freedom met in the heart of the capital, leaving behind the memory of a truly unique place in the history of Bucharest’s bohemian life.
We also recommend: History with a taste of the past. “Caragiale’s Gambrinus Brewery, the fiercest rival of the famous Caru’ cu Bere