Assan House, the palace in the heart of the Capital where the first Romanian to travel around the world lived

By Bucharest Team
- Articles
Hidden in the center of Bucharest, right behind Piața Romană, stands Assan House, a superb building erected at the beginning of the 20th century. As its name suggests, it once served as the residence of a member of the influential Assan family, namely Bazil, the eldest son of the family’s patriarch. The story of this miniature palace is intertwined with the rise of one of Bucharest’s most important dynasties, whose members shaped both the economic and cultural landscape of the capital.
An architectural jewel inspired by French elegance
Just a few steps away from the hustle of Piața Romană, overshadowed by the imposing Sheraton Hotel, Assan House captures the gaze of every passerby. Built in 1914 at Lahovary Square no. 9, the residence reflects the elegance of French architecture from the era of Louis XV.
The building was designed by the renowned architect Ion D. Berindey, whose works also include the Cantacuzino Palace (today the George Enescu Museum) on Calea Victoriei, and the Florescu House. The similarities between Assan House and the Cantacuzino Palace are striking, particularly in the design of the entrance facing the street.
Berindey, who studied at the prestigious École nationale supérieure des beaux-arts in Paris, was the son of Dimitrie Berindey, the first Romanian architect trained in the French capital.
Making use of the vast plot of land, he envisioned a complex residence: a main entrance framed by two driveways, stables for horses, garages, and homes for the coachman and chauffeur. Surprisingly, the rear entrance of the house turned out to be more refined and spectacular than the one overlooking Lahovary Square.
Crossing the ornate iron gate, which shields the property from the city’s noise, visitors enter an oasis of peace. Decorative wrought iron motifs adorn the ground-floor windows, while the façade breaks its symmetry with a small tower topped by a round dome on the left side. The building spreads over three levels: basement, ground floor, and upper floor.
Luxury and refinement inside
The interior of Assan House is just as impressive as its exterior. The southern part of the ground floor was reserved for guest quarters, while the rest featured five grand salons. Upstairs, three apartments were allocated to members of the Romanian Academy, who later became stewards of the building. The basement and lower level contained the kitchen and service rooms.
Following the French model, each room carried a symbolic name that reflected its décor. The Chess Room, the Hall of Mirrors and Chandeliers—where every wall was lined with bronze-framed mirrors beneath sparkling crystal chandeliers—the Council Room, the Edison Room with its rare Edison lamp, and the Zodiac Room, illuminated by a large stained-glass window depicting zodiac signs, were just a few of its wonders.
The heavy metal front door, richly decorated and fitted with thick glass panes, opened into the grand hall. There, a stained-glass skylight shaped like a peacock’s tail filled the space with colorful light. Throughout the house, mirrors, bronze statues, oil paintings, and carefully crafted furniture contributed to the luxurious atmosphere.
Much of the original furniture, made of massive wood and upholstered in precious Alcantara leather, has survived. Sliding wooden doors, crystal chandeliers, and the winter garden with stained-glass panels further reflected the refinement of the Assans, a family firmly anchored in Bucharest’s high society.
Perhaps the most spectacular architectural feature is the back entrance. Its double staircase, gracefully curved and bordered by wrought iron balustrades, descends towards a garden with a fountain at its base. The stairs connect the residence to the summer garden, where today a terrace restaurant welcomes guests during the warm season.
The rise of the Assan family
The Assans were not originally wealthy. Their fortune began with George Assan, the family patriarch. Arriving in Bucharest, he started as a merchant and, in 1849, together with Ioan Martinovici, opened a grocery store that distinguished itself by offering imported luxury goods. The venture was highly profitable, allowing George to expand his business.
In 1853, he built the famous Assan Mill on the banks of Lake Colentina, marking a turning point in both the city’s and the country’s history. This was the first steam-powered industrial installation in Romania, equipped with a Siegel steam engine purchased from Vienna. For many historians, this moment represents the true beginning of industrialization in the country.
The steam mill gradually replaced dozens of traditional watermills along the Dâmbovița River, which often caused devastating floods. More importantly, the mill and the bakery inside it became essential for Bucharest: at its peak, a third of the city’s inhabitants were said to eat bread produced there.
Although the mill operated for nearly 150 years, today it lies in a severe state of neglect, ignored by authorities despite its immense historical significance.
Bazil Assan, the adventurer industrialist
The most famous member of the family, Bazil Assan, inherited not only his father’s fortune but also his vision and ambition. Born in 1860, Bazil studied in Liège, Belgium, and later in Montreux, Switzerland.
Upon returning to Romania, he expanded the family’s enterprises: building two modern mills, a paint factory, a soap factory, and in 1907, an enormous grain silo capable of storing 700 railway wagons of wheat. At 41 meters tall, this silo ranked among the tallest buildings in Bucharest at the time. Bazil also founded Romania’s first factory for producing corn oil, inspired by American models.
Yet Bazil was not only a businessman but also an adventurer. Between December 1897 and spring 1898, he became the first Romanian to travel around the world. His journey, lasting five months, took him through Istanbul, Cairo, Ceylon, Beijing, Tokyo, the United States, and across the Pacific Ocean.
He also distinguished himself in another way: he was the owner of Romania’s first registered automobile, a 15-horsepower Panhard manufactured in Belgium. Naturally, his license plate bore the number “1-B.”
A heritage saved from destruction
Unlike many historical monuments demolished during the communist regime, Assan House survived and was later integrated into the patrimony of the Romanian Academy. It became known as the “House of Scientists,” serving as a cultural and scientific venue while preserving its original charm. Today, it also hosts the Romanian Academy’s restaurant, which allows visitors to enjoy a space once reserved for one of the city’s most remarkable families.
Through its refined architecture, preserved interiors, and the extraordinary stories of the Assan family, this miniature palace remains a rare gem in the heart of Bucharest. It is more than a house—it is a symbol of the city’s modernization, of entrepreneurial spirit, and of the thirst for adventure embodied by Bazil Assan, the first Romanian to circumnavigate the globe.
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